Dimensions given are mainly Metric. In a few instances, as a result of still commonly available materials and or tooling, Imperial sizes may used and are clearly marked as such.

Abbreviations are as follows:

Ø	-	diameter
W	-	wide
D	-	deep
L	-	long
P	-	pitch
R	-	radius
CH	-	chamfer

No tolerances are shown. The sequence of construction outlined should be followed, ensuring that the next part is properly fitted to the previous one. Keep this in mind as construction proceeds, making allowance for fits as required. For example, whilst the cylinder bore and the piston diameter are each the same dimension on their respective drawings, the correct fit would not be achieved were both made exactly to these dimensions. So, we finish the cylinder first and alter the piston diameter as required to give the correct running fit.

Careful, neat and accurate workmanship is required on all parts, whilst emphasis is given at each stage of construction to parts of particularly critical nature. Go over the drawings and instructions several times, so that you can picture the procedures and techniques used before you actually start. Remember the old machinist's maxim: "Think twice, cut once".

We have to assume that you have, or have access to, a reasonable workshop and are basically competent in general machining practices. A screw-cutting centre lathe, capable of accurate and parallel turning and a vertical milling machine with a rotary table will be the basic machines used. Although all the milling procedures described are based on the vertical mill, construction is certainly feasible using the vertical slide. In the latter case, builders will have to devise their own procedures.

Check all drills, milling cutters, reamers and taps called for and, before you start, sharpen or replace any which are not in first-class condition.

The usual lathe tools - LH and RH turning and facing tools, finish turning, boring, parting and threading tools will be used. In addition, you will need a fine parting tool, 1.6mm wide, for fins and other confined areas. If you don't already have one, also make a 45° chamfer tool. Turn a 45° taper on the end of a length of Ø10mm silver steel. Grind the taper down flat to the diameter, heat, quench and temper. finally, hone the cutting edge to a fine finish. This tool will be in constant use, breaking and chamfering the edges of parts to impart a really finished look to your "MATE" 2cc diesel engine.

The full "MATE" engine kit contains correct, selected materials and includes an M5x.8 prop nut and 6BA screws for the cylinder hold down. Bear these thread sizes in mind in the event your lathe will only cut Imperial threads and or you do not have suitable taps.

In the event you are going to build entirely from scratch, forget about visiting your local, friendly scrap metal merchant. There is little chance that either he, or you, nor anyone else for that matter, will know what you are looking at in steel or aluminium.

To give your first engine half a chance, order the following metals through a model engineer supply house or a metals supplier:

Steel for the crankshaft:	EN8, EN8M, CS1040, 08M40, or EN36, 655M13
Steel for the cylinder:	EN8 as above, or free-cutting 51214, S12L14
Crankshaft bush:	Phosphor bronze LG-2
Piston and contra-piston:	Grade 14 Meehanite, or close-grained grey cast iron
Aluminium for conrod:	2024-T3511, 7075-16, L98, H15
Other alloy parts:	6061-T6, 2011, H20, fC1
Wrist-pin, compression-screw, needle:	Silver steel -01, drill rod
Needle valve assembly:	1/4" hex free-cutting brass

Note that the various mandrels, laps and jigs can be made from any suitable workshop scraps. It is good practice to mark your materials, particularly specialised steel and aluminium stock, with a felt-tipped pen to aid later identification and avoid any similarity to the scrap merchant above!